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Bars-The Brass Monkey. Enghavevej 31. Copenhagen V, Denmark 1674 Brass Monkey is a kookie rum-tiki-billy pad in Vesterbro, Copenhagen.
getting to know this city means at least one break for smoerrebroed — the open-face Danish sandwiches generally topped with fresh shrimp, herring or egg — in a waterfront cafe in the recently gentrified Nyhavn quarter.
Another essential taste of Copenhagen is found at the enchanting Tivoli amusement park, open through Sept. 24, with outdoor concerts and carnival rides.
Tivoli, 3 Vesterbrogade, (45) 33 15 10 01, flower gardens, fanciful pavilions, rides and numerous restaurants.. Open Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Closes Sept. 24 and reopens Nov. 17 to Dec. 23. Tickets: $5, children $2.50.
Where to Stay
The conveniently situated 51-room Hotel Danmark, 89 Vester Voldgade, (45) 33 11 48 06, fax (45) 33 14 36 30, between Tivoli and the National Museum, offers a friendly welcome and uncluttered, traditional décor with bold colors. The typically tiny, spotless bathrooms have built-in hair dryers. The private garage ($9.40 a day) is a bonus. Doubles: $137.
Near the Amalienborg Palace, the 366-room Copenhagen Admiral Hotel, 24-28 Toldbodgade, (45) 33 74 14 14, fax (45) 33 74 14 16, is housed in an 18th-century granary with atmospheric barrel-vaulted hallways. Harborside rooms offer views of cruise ships and sailboats. And although rooms derive great charm from 200-year-old rough-hewn pine beams, the landmark wooden infrastructure means no air-conditioning. Amenities include a nightclub and sauna. Doubles: $128 to $164.
A children’s playroom and an enclosed outdoor patio adjoin the dining room at Ibsen’s Hotel, 23 Vendersgade, (45) 33 13 19 13, fax (45) 33 13 19 16, in a residential district near the Botanical Gardens. Most of the rooms display clean, no-frills Scandinavian design, although top-of-the-line suites have more ambitious décor and kitchenettes. The generous buffet breakfast is included in the room price. Doubles: $131 to $156.
Cafe Zeze, 20 Ny Ostergade, (45) 33 14 23 90, serves eclectic European fare, like lamb filets topped with shiitake mushrooms and an exotic vegetarian pasta laced with coconut cream and hot chili pepper. While the lunch crowd is mostly suit-and-tie, this streamlined bistro attracts a younger, cooler clientele after dark. Dinner and Tuborg for two: $45.
Tourism has tamed the once disreputable Nyhavn waterfront, and open-air restaurants have ousted tattoo parlors and brothels. At Nyhavns Faergekro, 5 Nyhavn, (45) 33 15 15 88, the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet with 10 varieties of Scandinavian herring for $11 is one of the best seafood bargains in Copenhagen. The famous fish cakes with remoulade sauce or smoked lamb sandwiches, both $5.60, also make a fine light lunch. At dinner, there is a fixed-price two-course menu for $19.
Caféen I Nikolaj, 12 Nikolaj Plads, (45) 33 11 63 13, which serves down-to-earth Danish fare in a deconsecrated church site. The creamed seafood chowder is superb, and the classic lunch combinations of herring, smoked eel, shrimp or salmon tartare never disappoint. Two for lunch will spend $35. It is open for dinner from spring to Sept. Dinner for two with wine: $75.
The Stroget is the main shopping area. At Cafe Europa, 1 Amagertorv, (45) 33 12 04 28. An oversized Danish sandwich topped with marinated artichoke, sun-dried tomato, roasted eggplant and fresh basil costs $8. A glass of wine or beer is $3.50. (No reservations.)